Vacheron Constantin, Watch Reviews

Sparkling Vacheron Constantin watches from Malte collection

The latest Vacheron Constantin’s timepieces from Malte collection, created in spectacular Haute Joaillerie way.

To complement the current range of Malte Haute Joaillerie models, the Manufacture is launching versions featuring bracelets entirely paved with baguette-cut diamonds, a vibrant tribute to the sublime beauty of artistic crafts. Entirely hand-crafted using the invisible setting technique, they are arrayed in a translucent cloak of diamonds that light up the display of time.


Invisible setting represents a technical feat that very few artisans currently master. Gold entirely vanishes beneath the diamonds: supported by a track, they form a luminous carpet exempt from any trace of fastening and thereby reveal their full radiance. Vacheron Constantin has chosen to take up this challenge on ‘form’ (special-shaped) timepieces which, despite their curving profile, are distinguished by edges, sharp angles and taut lines that compound the complexity of the task. To achieve this feat, the entire range of professions – from designer to gemsetter and from watchmaker to jeweller – work in close cooperation to orchestrate their respective skills. All are driven by a shared desire to surpass themselves and to demonstrate horological excellence worthy of these exceptional creations.

This harmony is particularly perceptible in the work of the gemcutter and gemsetter, who strive to fit the stones one by one into the place specially prepared for it. This involves craftsmanship accurate to the nearest hundredth of a millimetre as well as respect for a rigorously defined order. The precision required for this critical phase makes these watches and their diamonds an authentic challenge calling for well over 100 hours of painstaking work on each of the timepieces.


Only an exceptional calibre could be worthy of such a watch certified by the Hallmark of Geneva. Calibre 2795, a mechanical hand-wound movement with a two-day power reserve and comprising no less than 169 components, radiates a prestige on a par with that of the timepiece for which it has naturally become the dedicated calibre.

This tonneau-shaped tourbillon movement – entirely developed and crafted within the Manufacture – is perfectly suited to the 38 x 48.24 mm case featuring a sapphire back reproducing the shape of the case. 1,170 baguette-cut diamonds totalling 46.6 carats light up this authentic watchmaking masterpiece. The gold Haute Joaillerie bracelet alone is clothed in 764 baguette-cut diamonds totalling 28.7 carats. This stunning creation crafted using the invisible setting technique is secured by a gold folding clasp. The dial setting features a specific design, in which all diamonds are set radially so as to converge towards the central jewel on the tourbillon carriage, thereby highlighting its importance and its beauty.


The hours and minutes display is offset, leaving ample space for the height of this tourbillon carriage shaped like a Maltese Cross. The latter provides an ideal showcase for the exceptional level of finishing of each movement component, featuring a number of naturally hand-bevelled interior angles. Rounding off the tourbillon bar alone is a technical challenge that requires more than 12 hours of manual workmanship to meet the finishing criteria laid down by Vacheron Constantin. This task consists of filing each end of the arms to give them a conical or semi-cylindrical shape, while respecting the limits of the centre and the heels. To finalise the operation, artisans rub it down with stones, buffs, wooden pegs and finishing pastes so as to achieve a perfectly polished effect.


Its cambered shape, exquisite curves and slenderness make the Malte high jewellery small model an anthem to femininity. Its pure, refined lines that are supremely classic in spirit, yet imbued with an authentically modern touch, take on a sensual allure beneath the sparkle of its setting composed of 742 diamonds totalling no less than 28.90 carats. The radial setting of the 126 diamonds adorning the dial, converging towards the axis of the hours and minutes hands, automatically draws the gaze towards the centre of the timepiece.

Entirely crafted using the invisible setting technique, this new creation bearing the Hallmark of Geneva comes in a curved case measuring 29.30 by 39.60 mm and perfectly moulding the shape of even the daintiest wrist. Beating inside it is Calibre 1400, a mechanical hand-wound movement developed and produced by Vacheron Constantin. The working of the latter is visible through a transparent tonneau-type caseback reflecting the shape of the case. The gold bracelet – associated to a jewellery clasp – is entirely paved with 494 baguette-cut diamonds. This shape of precious stone gives rise to the light for a feminine, elegant and distinguished rendering.