TOP 5 masterpiece watches

The new entry from ‘TOP5’ series. This time I will be taking a closer look at the watches that I have reviewed lately and I can say about them the ‘masterpiece’.

I know that the term ‘masterpiece’ is a relative question, but I have chosen timepieces that clearly stand out the most from the rest watches, in both technical and design aspect.

Zenith – Academy Georges Favre-Jacot

The watch I have chosen at the beginning is the Zenith watch, created for 150th anniversary as the commemorative timepiece. I really like this watch, because it stands out with its majestically openworked dial and the bridges, which makes really great impression. But, this watch keeps the great balance and makes it not overbearing.

Under the 45mm diameter case made of 18K rose gold it is a manual El Primero 4810 movement enclosed. We can see a part of this movement in a work through the upper dial revealed. The whole movement consists of exactly 222 parts. Domed sapphire glass with anti-reflection is sheltering this silver-toned dial, which features small seconds dial at 7:30 and power reserve indicator at 4:30. Blued hands contrast very well with this pretty bright dial. There is a transparent sapphire glass on the case-back also, so we can see the whole movement. The watch goes with brown alligator strap with a protective rubber lining. We can see a chain transmission with a barrel at 10 – 11 o’clock and fusee, where the chain winds around itself at 1 – 2 o’clock. The movement takes more than 50 hours to unwind, for the chain to coil around the barrel. Academy Georges Favre-Jacot watch is a beautiful tribute, which underlines an impressiveness and a quality of Zenith manufacture through the years, and proves that watchmaking tradition linked with the modern approach harmonizes very well and gives great results.




MB&F – LM101 Frost Limited Edition

The timepiece from MB&F, which is intriguing in many ways. Starting with the technique, in which the ‘frost’ dial of this watch has been received and the beautiful mechanical movement with the components in maching tone of the gold. It is worth to mention that this in-house mechanism of the LM101 timepiece was produced with the help of the watchmaker – Kari Voutilainen.

The LM101 Frost watch features the case with a diameter of 40mm. The watch is really thick (16mm) thanks to the massive, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides. A dial expresses the simple charm and elegance of the fine watchmaking with the slick bridges, 14mm balance wheel with four regulating screws and two subdials created with the characteristic, vintage approach. The ‘main’ subdial features the hour and minute indication at the upper right side of the watch, where the power reserve indication is under the balance wheel. The in-house MB&F movement can be admired through the sapphire crystal at the case back. The whole Legacy Machine 101 Frost watch is complemented by light or dark alligator leather strap, which goes with each LM101 Frost watch.




Patek Philippe – Chiming Jump Hour Ref.5275

The next watch is the Chiming Jump Hour Ref.5265 watch from Patek Philippe. As the first watch from my ‘TOP 5 ‘ masterpiece watches list, this one is a Patek Philippe’s 175th anniversary timepiece. This watch is highly classy with a touch of music. It features acoustic indications at the top of every hour. The tonneau-shaped case and the dial are decorated with the antique patterns, which underlines the real elegance and high class.

Additionally, the tonneau shaped case with dimensions of 39,8 x 47,4 mm is made of precious platinum. There is a Caliber 32-650 HGS PS mechanical movement bringing to life all functions in this classy timepiece. The movement is manually wound and has the maximum power reserve oscillating between 53 hours. As I mentioned at the beginning, this watch has an automatic hours strike and jumping hours in the aperture, minutes hand and seconds hand in the small circular dial. The crucial thing about this watch is that its case is a dust and wetness protected only, so it is not water resistant at all. The solid caseback is engraved with the inscription : “PATEK PHILIPPE GENEVE 175e Anniversaire 1839 – 2014“.




Breguet – Tradition Automatique Seconde Retrograde 7097

The next watch is the creation from Breguet. When you look at this watch, you can at glance see the distinguishable signs of the Tradition collection. Most of the movement parts are fully exposed like bridges, wheels, barrel and other components that build this sophisticated movement.

As you can see a mechanical movement has become a strong part of the design in this collection. Hours and minutes are displayed at the upper-dial in a sub-dial with vintage numerals along with a retrograde seconds displayed with the semi-circle. Everything is finished in the classic for Breguet way.

 Distinctive blued-steel hands complement the whole Tradition collection. All of the complications in this watch are powered by self winding Calibre 505SR1 mechanical movement. At the center of a dial we can see a main spring barrel, which provides 50 hours of power reserve when fully wound. The interesting fact about this sophisticated movement is that it’s adjusted to 6 positions. At 4 o’clock there is a para-chute system protecting the balance staff from shocks. Everything is assembled within 40mm case made of white gold. Finely fluted caseband is the next eye-catching thing about this watch. The front and caseback is treated by sapphire crystal. Watch goes with black alligator leather strap. Another great Breguet watch with a stunning appearance that knocks on knees and impress. It is a dream for a real horological connoiseurs.




Rotonde de Cartier Moon and Earth

The final watch of the ‘TOP5 masterpiece watches’ for today is the fancy Rotonde de Cartier Moon and Earth timepiece. Enormous 47mm platinum case attracts the attention at a glance. We can find mechanical movement with manual winding (9440 MC). Decorated crown with blue sapphire cabochon. The dial is decorated in lapis lazuli, which contrasts with the platinum case and Arabic Numerals made of 18K white gold. The watch features tourbillon, second time zone and moon phase. The movement in this watch consists of 362 parts including 40 jewels. Water resistance is restricted to 30 meters. Watch goes with the black alligator leather strap.